Big Ben, Big Todd and Arlo
So if I said I just got back from a vacation filled with sunshine, palm trees and magical movie studios you would think I was in Orlando or California for a week. Not true. I was in London. Yes, that London. The one with the Big Ben Clock. Palm trees? Fun fact. (My host Mark Porst loves to throw out fun facts). Even though London is further north than the most northern part of the continental United States, the temperatures are moderate enough to grow palm trees. Who knew?
This adventure was long overdue. My fraternity brother, Mark, and his lovely wife Betsy, invited me to visit. Mark is about to retire from P&G. I actually helped him get that job 30 years ago when I worked for the company. And in 10 days he will retire, (although the official retirement date is February 15, 2018) He and Betsy have been in England for the past few years.
I couldn't say no to their invitation. When they invited me to bring someone along I chose my nephew Arlo. Yes, Super Arlo, the superhero in my family, one and the same. Off we went then to find Harry Potter.
This trip was the perfect combination of history, monarchy, beauty and theatre. A totally relaxing visit even though my brain was on overload with all of the history. A visit to Europe should start in London. I'll try to summarize all we saw and experienced but it was so much it will be hard.
Day one - The Big Bus Tour
All trips to big cities should start with a big bus tour. In this case a red double-decker. Our tour guide, Patrick (or maybe it was Richard) explained all of the sites along the route and filled in the blanks for many other London mysteries. Betsy and Patrick were just about equally knowledgeable of the surroundings. In fact at one point Betsy was explaining an upcoming monument and Richard looked a bit offended she had stolen his thunder.
Some facts gleaned on these travels. The Great Fire started on Pudding Lane. There are only 8000 residents of London proper, no real skyscrapers filled with apartments or offices as you would see in other major cities. Hyde Park was once King Henry VIII hunting grounds. There are dragon sculptures at each entry point of London, protecting the city. Sweeney Todd was a real barber and is estimated to have given "close shaves" to more than 100 travelers. I stayed away from meat pies during the trip. Parmesan cheese is kept in bank vaults in Italy. Those are just a few facts from the week. There will be more!
The afternoon was spent in the Tower of London. The Tower has been a castle in wartime, a king's residence in peacetime and and site of executions in Henry VIII time. It is where the crown jewels are stored. Compare the beauty of the jewels with the horror of the torture chambers and the towers themselves. I was overwhelmed by how large the complex was. In fact the green space was a zoo for over 700 years.
Looking back at the Tower of London and the Thames
There was a collection of armor for both humans and horses on the top floor. Henry VIII's gradually growing armor from a young age to his death helps to understand his "weighty" issues of the monarchy. And finally an armory of cannons/guns etc.
We then went over to the "walkie talkie", a 35 story tall building nearby with a sky deck, to look down on the complex and also get a birds eye view of the city. London is certainly a beautiful city.
Sunset in downtown London. Beautiful
In the evening we met up with Mark and went to dinner at the Dog and Fox in Wimbledon Village. Mark and Betsy live within walking distance of Wimbledon in a charming little village. I had my fish and chips! It was marvelous. Oh and don't forget the mushy peas. Not Arlo's favorite but I liked them!
Fish and Chips! YES!!
Day Two: Wimbledon and Harry Potter Studios.
Arlo loves tennis and loves Harry Potter. This was pretty much a dream day for him. Standing in Centre Court! Another fun fact. Wimbledon replants the grass from seed every year. Talk about meticulous. A beautiful stadium, a tennis fan's dream for sure. There was a virtual tour we experienced. In it a raven flies in front of each of us and sets on the wall of the stadium. We were wearing virtual head sets, and when the raven got in front of Arlo he pecked him with his beak. Actually the tour guide used that moment to just lightly tough Arlo's hand, and thus Arlo thought a real bird had touched him.
Wimbledon Centre Court
I had a crawfish and avocado sandwich for lunch. This was a first and delicious of course, and then off to the Magical World of Harry Potter. The studios where the films were shot have been set up for guests to wander through and enjoy. I chose to take a private tour. While it was costly, $250 per person, I suggest to all you bite the bullet and follow my lead. We were treated like studio execs from the moment we boarded the bus at the train station.
A magical day begins.
Three studio guides were assigned to our small group of 7. Lara was the our official guide taking us through the studios J and K set by set. The grand dining hall, Dumbledore's office, the kids bedroom, the streets where they shopped, and the forbidden forest were just some of the sets intact from the filming. We leisurely walked through the studios, stopping for photos, gaining insights into the behind the scenes production and overall transforming ourselves into Harry's world. Every minute was precious. Some fun facts, in one scene where Harry fights the evil lord they made 40 jackets with varying degrees of dirt and tearing of the jackets. When they opened Harry Potter Studios to the public they thought people would come for a year or two, never thinking it would become an attraction. The studio guides always speak in terms of "we", as in when "we made the movies..." Hagrets was not a big man and they had a double who was 6'10. All of the sets had to be duplicated at 87% size to accommodate the differences in size. Books in Dumbledore's office are covered London Phone books. Dumbledore's telescope was the most expensive prop, it really works and is barely seen in the movies. The director wanted all the leads to be unknowns. The original hair/make-up/costumers come to the studios and do touch ups and cleaning at regular intervals.
The Great Hall at Hogwarts, Harry Potter ate here!
The studio gave us photos, mp3s of Arlo flying a broom, butterbeer and a fine dinner, for me, bangers and mash. If you are going to London, take this tour. You won't regret it.
Day Three: History, Monarchy, Pageantry and Kinky Boots.
When you plan a trip to London it is reassuring to know so many people have had a wonderful experience there. I have heard before that if you want to explore Europe, start in London. The city is inviting, historical, and for the most part filled with very gracious people. Unlike New York or Chicago, London is more relaxed, not so much of shoulder to shoulder push and shove match. And if you can have two tour guides like Mark and Betsy Porst you won't have a single minute that isn't educational and beautiful. I'll share about them in a while, but first, to London we go.
Friday started at Buckingham Palace for the changing of the guard. Every other day there is a formal "shift change". Soldiers in their full regalia and bear skin black hats. A marching band leads them from the palace to the quarters down the street.
Changing of the Guard, some serious weapons!
We followed the procession quite a ways and then circled back to enjoy the Park Lake the foliage and animals of Buckingham Palace's surrounding parks. London is very green thanks to some great foresight. Again this helps to to make the city more inviting.
My biggest surprise was our next attraction. Westminster Abbey is everything people say about it and more. I was aware that kings and queens were buried there as well as famous Brits though out history. But I had no idea is was 3000 tombs and the remains 29 kings and queens. A cemetery under several magnificent roofs. Look up, down, and all around when you visit. Royal weddings, funerals and coronations ooze from the walls. I could spend a day or more here.
Surprises in terms of burials. Sir Lawrence Olivier at the feet of the Shakespeare statue. C.S. Lewis, David Frost, not to mention Charles Darwin, Isaac Newton and Charles Dickens, just to name a few. Certainly the royal tombs make is crystal clear there is no expense spared when the royal family is buried.
But the Abbey is far more than that. Stain glass windows. The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, the naves and chapels through out. It's a place to wander and absorb the history of the Monarchy as well as the cultural impact.
One fun fact, I asked who decides who is buried in the Abbey. The Queen!
Super Arlo always knows where the phone booths are
We tubed to Covent Garden for the rest of the day. There we walked through the amazing retail shops both high and low end. There were street performers spread through out the block. We stopped for a magician and both Arlo and Betsy became part of the act. Arlo initialed a 5 LB note and the magician turned it into a 5 Euro note. By the end of the show Arlo found his original fiver tucked neatly inside a banana held by Betsy.
Outdoor fair at Covent Gardens
We enjoyed walking through the open air markets looking for gifts for everyone. We walked through Chinatown, lots of meat in the window ready to serve up for dinner. But we ate at the Burger and Lobster. I didn't expect much here and was pleasantly surprised by a one lb lobster. Finally we walked to the Adelphi Theater for the evening entertainment, Kinky Boots.
Now you may ask, why would you bring an 11 year old to Kinky Boots? Because it was a great show. The title is more revealing than the show. And truly Arlo is a seasoned Broadway advocate, living in Brooklyn. The show was wonderful. This is the story of the Price family who has made men's shoes for three generations north of London. Superstores have hurt sales of fine shoes and through the course of a street accident Charlie Price meets Lola, a drag queen, and is sold on the idea of making boots for drag queens. It's a fun story with music by Cindy Lauper. Arlo recognized he lead, David Hunter, who played Charlie and is in the rock band Reemer. And once he figured out the Drag Queens were not necessarily gay, he figured out the show.
Day Four, Government, WWII, and the Phantom.
This day started in the Wimbledon Town Centre at Bill's Restaurant. I had the best breakfast I have had in years, fresh toasted bread, poached eggs, avocado and bacon.
Avocado, Bacon, Toast and Poached Egg HMMM Good
Just wonderful! Arlo had some British pancakes. One thing about England. They do not have the endless cup of coffee. We order "Americano" coffee which is really a lighter cappuccino. And water is not automatically on the table. Everywhere we went they would bring out a liter of tap water when we asked, but we had to ask.
Back on tube, this time to Waterloo Station. A brisk walk across the Westminster Bridge to Parliament, where we walked by Cromwell and Charles I who stare each other down daily. As we walk into Parliament I was struck by Westminster Hall. This grand room has hosted Nelson Mandela, the kings and queens and Barack Obama as well. This is where Churchill lie in state. I can imagine the Beatles playing here at some point.
As we walked through this center of power I was reminded of the importance of tradition. The Houses of Lords and Commons are distinct. One does not casually walk into each others space. The meeting rooms were ornate and incredible. The Queens robing room, used once a year when she addresses both houses is gold laden. There are reliefs of King Arthur's court through out. Interesting the mix of fantasy, King Arthur, and start reality, the government of England.
After this tour we ventured across the street to the Churchill War Rooms. Betsy and Mark dropped me at the War Rooms and took Arlo to the playgrounds. This is where the British planned for WWII. Under the streets of London, one can only imagine the bombs going off overhead and wondering if the walls would hold. Another must see, for the most part the rooms have been either recreated, or they were left intact. In the map room the officers turned off the lights, locked the door and there it sat for 30 years until someone stumbled on it in the 80's.
The Churchill Museum is in the middle of the complex. The museum is a wonderful tribute to one of our world's most brilliant leaders. I spent an hour in the here and could and spent 3 or 4. I bought the guidebook and audio tour and was glad I did. I am reminded of what it was to fight a war in a low tech world.
The map room in the Churchill war rooms
I caught up to the gang after my tour of the war rooms. Arlo had been with another street performer, a Houdini style escape artist with a straight jacket. We went to the top of a tall building for appetizers and drinks alfresco and then headed to Garfunkels (no Simon) for dinner. Another plate of Fish and Chips for me, and time to head to Her Majesty's Theatre.
High atop the buildings, sunset in London
Tonight's performance, Phantom of the Opera. Arlo was dazzled. His comment after, "Uncle Todd, this is so much better than Hamilton." I love that kid :) You could not see Phantom in a better place than London. The stage was incredible. One note, the beginning of Act 2 opens with a scene on a staircase with the cast singing Masquerade. On the London stage the staircase stretched from stage right to stage left, down stage to up stage. It was HUGE! All I could think of was where could they possibly store this the rest of the show. The stage manager in me haha.
Day Five: Hampton, Henry VIII, and a rest-filled evening.
We eased into Sunday. I went for my morning stroll and picked up coffee for Mark and I. Betsy and Arlo worked on humanities homework and built a Nano Big Ben Tower. Mark cooked delicious custom omelettes for us all. By now Arlo and Betsy have become besties and I'm thinking the departure in the morning will be tearful for both. The Porsts are the real deal when it comes to families. Three wonderful kids (thee Phi Psis and two Kappas in the mix) and an attitude about life that inspires. I have known them literally since the day they met and their friendship only gets stronger and stronger. Soon Betsy will have grandchildren. She will be the perfect grandmother as well. Mark is retiring 7 days from the posting of this blog.
Todd, Mark, Arlo and Betsy on the Thames
FYI Mark went to work for Procter and Gamble when I worked there. 33 years later he is retiring. Dedication for sure. When I started our capital campaign for the rebuilding of the house Mark was the first person to sign on. He is committed to the right thing and the right wing haha. It's fascinating to listen to both as they cover many topics in an encyclopedic manner.
We decided to spend a leisurely day in Hampton Court. Henry VIII lived here and many other monarchs. It is a huge complex of gardens, lakes, animal hunting grounds and castles. Monarch after Monarch added their own touches to the complex. Each added new apartments, sitting rooms and bedrooms. The floors are fine hardwood, indicative of the riches found in the Americas and brought back. Walking through adds to the perception of wealth the monarchs each had. Fine furniture, gold trim, tapestries all line the walls. There were huge fire places in each room. One can only imagine the servants preparing and warming the castle each morning for the residents.
Of course things like holes in the floors for "bathrooms" or chamber pots, and iron bath tubs remind you that things were "different back then."
Arlo at the Hampton Magic Park
While Arlo and Betsy enjoyed the Magic park on the ground, Mark and I strolled though the castle and the ground. This was one final walk through royalty at its finest. I could just imagine the King standing on the porch looking out at this open air shrine to opulence. One final reminder that Britain's roots are far different than the United States.
Our final evening was spent at the Porsts beautiful apartment in Wimbledon. We watched Beetlejuice, It's the Great Pumpkin Charlie Brown and ate some British Chinese food (rather bland but ok). It was a time to reflect on the week, all we had seen, learned about and shared. I can't begin to thank Mark and Betsy. Perfect hosts. And wonderful friends.
Arlo and his "Bestie" Betsy
My thanks to Alex and Sylvia Ruggieri and Jerry and Christie Ramshaw as well just for letting me go and encouraging me to forget about work for awhile. I wish everyone could work for people you love and respect.
Finally my thanks to Kristina and Daniel for loaning me their youngest for a week. To pull him out of school to spend a week with Crazy Uncle Todd is insane. And I love them for their insanity. I have been saying "Every DAY Matters" for a while now and certainly each of these days did. Even waking Arlo up at 5 AM for the place was pleasant haha. I wouldn't trade this week for the world.
